July 10, 2013 - We Are All Turks

Monumentalism

Morning Lecture - Zeynep: very interesting depictions of modern mosques that are on the books. The new mosque proposal in Taksim Square really looks amazing, but will it happen? Details:

Professor Ahmet Vefik Alp, an architect, has revealed the details of a mosque project in İstanbul's busy Taksim neighborhood that also entails the construction of a cultural center and museum.

Sights

Military Museum and Mehter Concert

Quote of the day, from Jason, "We are all Turks." To some degree, this is true. The claim of Ataturk, "Nations who are unaware of their history are obliged to die out."

Perhaps the need to write a narrative is a result of having inherited the Byzantine Empire from the Greeks. To compare, all I can say is, "what if the Cherokee had written the narrative for America? What would it say?

After seeing the Military Museum, my mind has been blown away by the convergence of tribalism vs. modernity, or nomadism vs. sedentarianism. In many ways, I could almost compare this narrative to that of the Germans. The were the tribes who invaded Rome and absorbed Rome's sedentary way of life. They embraced it wholeheartedly without becoming un-German. Isn't the Turk's story similar? My last remaining question is this - why Islam? And what was Ataturk's true intention regarding it? Could the Turks have been successful as animists? Or, since they'd adopted a narrative, perhaps the idea of which is Greek, why not Christianity? And why the fundamentalist movements in all the worlds major religions now?

What do we have in store for the future?

The only thing I know for sure, is to keep learning, keep writing. For without it, I agree with Ataturk on this, "we're obliged to die out."

Sabancı Museum

Enter on top floor - scholarly literature on Orientalism, archaeology - find Chicago

Lower level = costumes, travel, photography, and painting

Zeynep's display in here. No photography indoors although I was allowed to photograph the Qur'ans without flash.

But the real treasure was
at the very top in the calligraphy exhibit. Beautifully illuminated Qur'ans dating from the 15th century to the present.





Evening dinner at the Indian restaurant to bid farewell to my new beautiful friends, Leslie and Kelly.

July 9, 2013 - The European Moment

Morning Lecture:
Strayer:

THE EUROPEAN MOMENT IN WORLD HISTORY

Robert Strayer, Ways of the World

Very interesting lecture this morning. I was really struck by how Strayer approached
the topic "The European Moment in World History."  This was a very interesting way to discuss Europe. I feel today that we have taken a total 180 degrees on this topic. History used to be taught in a very Eurocentric way. Today, it seems the trend is to teach history from a non-European perspective and to take emphasis off of Europe. What I really enjoyed about Strayer's approach was that it's necessary still to learn about both European states as well as others, and to put Europe in the context in which it belongs. Having a background in Classical and medieval history, my modern history is very weak. It was really nice to learn about 1750 forward, though I am out of my element.

Kayelı  - Empire to Nation

Okay, totally tripped out on what Kayelı displayed today. A map showing what Turks are taught in school about the migration pattern of humans. This actually TOTALLY fits what my own theory has been: I have always thought that humans began in India. Since the Mughals settled northern India, and they were Turkic, then perhaps?? So according to this theory, humans would have dispursed around the world from central Asia making all people descendents of Turks. I know people are going to frown on me, but I can actually buy it. I'd like to see scientific proof. Are they still teaching this in school?

Sights:

 

Dolmabahçe Palace and Mosque 

I had been here when I visited in 1996 and vividly remember the foot covers. Fun to relive it, and in the summer - when I went it was cold and dreary. The first mosque without the oodles and oodles of wires to hang up antiquated light fixtures/ candle holders. 

 

Cool - breaking the fast, Iftar, for Ramadan! If you get a seat on time, the community provides the meal, and all gather and wait for the sunset call to prayer.

This evening we met at the Dervish Cafe. The waiter insisted we see the deck, so Melissa, Rob, and I took a photo with him.

One last game with Enri, my backgammon buddy aka carpet salesman near our hotel. This is, however, where Rob wound up buying his rug:)

July 8, 2013 - Turkish Hulk Hogan at Kinaliada

Morning Lectures

Hasan Kayeli - Ottoman History - 18th and 19the Century
Really great job putting the history together. I am so glad, for once I've actually read enough to be able to follow along. Focusing on Tanzimat (1839-1876), which were the reforms to modernize during the 19th century. Snack time followed by Zeynep, who discussed 19th century architecture, which was designed primarily by the French, though money problems prevented many of these projects from coming into fruition.

Sights: Heading to Kinaliada, one of the Prince's Islands accessible by ferry from the Kabatas.

Melissa is Armenian Turkish and her grandparents live there, so a wonderful outing for today. We had a much needed fun day to drink on the beach and bond. I realize that our culture really does use alcohol as a means to socialize. If it were winter, I think the hot tea at the tea houses would be ample, however, it is hot, it is summer, and we are American. I don't need to feel any affects of alcohol to use it as a social tool. One drink, that's enough, and it will keep us huddled in conversation. Because there wasn't a local bar, the NEH program lacked this way for us to congregate and enjoy one another's company. It would have made the trip to have a hotel bar for those who wish to hang out and enjoy a drink, or even better, the conversation that goes with it. Our hotel's deck provided a beautiful view, but closed too early to take advantage of it as a way to meet up and debrief at the end of the day. I think I would insist on creating this if another opportunity arose.

And we were reading Findley!

Turkish Hulk Hogan

Left to right: Hulk, Tracy, me, Johana, Melissa, Regina

July 7, 2013 - Dervishes

Today was a day I finally felt like I could breathe. Awoke for a slightly longer run with Leslie and Karen. Leslie is such a crackup!

Breakfast and some "homework" today. Karen, Leslie, Kelly, and I went up to the hotel called " ." It is where Agatha Christie stayed while writing "Murder on the Orient Express." We had apps, dessert, and tea then headed to Galata Tower, the Genoese watchtower built in 1453 where Leslie and I read some Findley.

Then, met with the group to see the whirling dervishes who commemorate Rumi. This is a spiritual movement among the Sufi who are replicating Rumi's mourning over his lost friend. Right hand faces up to receive the world / God and left hand down to give it to the world. Twirl to the left as this helps the heart receive. Sheik is present to keep dervishes in this world as they transform from the otherly. Very interesting, though I felt as if I was intruding on their religious experience. I'll probably never see them again, but I am glad to have experienced it. 



Video courtesy of Greg Sill and Robert Strayer.

The four of us went for dinner, then split. Kelly stayed in Galata, I headed back to shop in the Ramadan markets, and Leslie and Karen did their Turkish baths. All in all chill day.

July 6, 2013 - Ephesus

Ephesus!!

I have to admit, this Ottoman history and being in Istanbul is very new and challenging for me. My background in ancient history has been utterly useless this week except that I can, when I buckle down and concentrate, read and think as a historian. Buckling down and concentrating, however, is a huge challenge when there's do much to do and so much to see and take in.

Yesterday, was a wonderful break as we went to Ephesus and got out of Istanbul! Yes, I have to admit, big city life is only okay with me if urban sprawl doesn't occur beyond the "city walls." I love cities like London that are big and crowded, but also everything is within a walk or short tube ride and as soon as the city's boundaries are crossed, there is green belt. Istanbul is enormous and sprawls like Los Angeles. This is why I left L.A. London and San Diego have plenty of places that are within short distances where one can get away and "take a break" from the hustle and bustle.

Besides getting out of Istanbul, we went to the largest open air museum that was the ancient port of Ephesus under the Roman Empire. It also has a very rich history from Hellenistic times and a deep connection with Christianity. Included in our day was the supposed last home of Mary, where she was said to have spent the last 11 years of her life. True or untrue, we were able to take a scenic bus ride 1500 feet up to view this home and the neighboring forest and cistern. I had been 17 years ago in 1996, but it was nice to return and create new memories.

Following that, we toured the ruins of Ephesus. Especially fantastic was the library of Celsus built in the 2nd century (the 3rd largest in the ancient world after Alexandria and Pergamum). In addition was the 5,000 seat Odeon where the municipal meetings and debates took place and the Great Theatre, which seated 25,000 people.

Sarah, Leslie, me, Kelly with library of Celsus in background

We followed our tour with the best lunch I've had yet and the obligatory carpet demonstration. I think all of us secretly admitted to wanting to learn about the process, the differences in quality and design, and, yes, most importantly, the prices. It was a much more comfortable situation to be in a presentation with a group rather than by myself in someone's shop. We saw the process of weaving wool and obtaining silk from the cocoons, but Matthew was annoyed as this was not on his agenda. I did learn a lot, however, and among other things, that a quality carpet is not actually ever going to be in my budget. I fell in love with the silk rugs, which averaged $4,000.00. Even a 4X6 foot wool rug was quoted at $1700.00, and while the price is certainly negotiable, it would be impossible to get it down to one I'd be comfortable with. Now I know.

Me with Matthew Herbst,
fabulous program director

Lastly, we toured the Basilica of St. John, patronized by Justinian, and supposedly containing the tomb of St. John. Interestingly, this has drawn "pilgrims" for centuries, which in turn keeps the tourist industry pumping in the towns of Selcuk and Kusadasi. I think it is a misnomer to think that all ancient "pilgrims" were highly religious. These monuments are just terrific sights that are part of the Christian heritage, and regardless of one's level of religiousness, totally worth the visit, which inevitably means, worthy of my tourist dollars. Likewise, the town is very western-friendly and oriented and due to this, local Turks speak considerably better English that in Istanbul. All in all, I just love to wander around on ruins and hang out, so this day and the visit to Theodosius's Wall have been my favorites on the trip.

July 5, 2013

Morning

Sights

Photos

July 4, 2013

Morning

Sights

Photos

July 3, 2013

Morning

 

Sights

 

- Uskudar: Asian Istanbul

- Mihrimah Sultan Camii (Mihrimah Sultan Mosque) designed by Sinan

- Sesmi Pasha Camii designed by Sinan

- Train station, built with loans from Germany

 

Photos

July 2, 2013

Morning

 

Sights

- Suleymaniye Camii (Suleyman's Mosque)

- Rustem Pasa Camii

- Grand Bizarre, Spice Bizarre

 

Evening

July 1, 2013

Morning

Sights:

• Topkapi Palace- three gates, female haram, circumcision room, Crown Jewels, Islamic relics

June 30, 2013

Morning

Sights

• Trip to Bursa
• Green Mosque and Green Tomb of Mehmed I
• Great Mosque and Koza Han (Silk Market)
• Tombs of Orhan and Osman
• Iskender Kebap for lunch

June 29, 2013

Morning

Sights

• Cruise up Bosporus Strait to Remuli Hisan- Fortress built by Mehmed II
• Galata Tower and neighborhood 

Photos

Thoughts

June 28, 2013

Morning

Sights

• St. Eirene Church 

• Archeological Museum 

Photos

Thoughts

June 27, 2013 - Chora Monestary and Taksim

Morning Lecture:

Sights:

Chora Museum 

 This place was a trip as there were gorgeous mosaics that had some different versions of the story of Jesus and Mary. For instance, there were mosaics of Joseph's older son from a previous marriage. Images of Mary almost child-like as she marries Joseph. And, an image of Mary on her death bed with Jesus holding a baby above her - Mary's reincarnated spirit? Whoah!

Eyup: 'City of Holiness' to Muslims; Abu Ayyub al-Ansari's bones at the site- close follower of Prophet Muhammad- now an Islamic pilgrimage site; also site where the Sword of Osman is given to the new Ottoman sultan. Not to mention, that young boys about to be circumcised are dressed up in costume, go to some mosque or other holy place to take photos, and then get the deed done followed by a big party with presents. Terrifying, excited, and traumatizing all in one day!

View of the Golden Horn

 Followed by tea over-looking the Golden Horn.

Fun night out in Taksim Square with Rob, Jason, Regina, Emre, and Allison!

June 26, 2013 - Theodosius' Wall

Morning Lecture:

Sights:

Ecumenical Patriarchate (head of Orthodox Church)

Land Wall and Golden Gate Fortress near Yedikule Road (climb and explore)

Kelly and I has such a great time bonding and exploring this fortress. So much fun to run around ruins and frolic and play. At the same time, I could easily imagine troops patrolling the wall, looking out onto the Bosphorus, making sure there were no enemies approaching.

Director Matthew Herbst and faculty Anthony Kaldellis.

June 25, 2013 - Mosaics and Hagia Sophia

Morning Lecture:

Mosaics Museum: I just absolutely love mosaics! My favorite art project to do with students is the mosaic after we learn about the Byzantines. I am so excited to have my own images to show students. Honestly, they are my favorite part of the Hagia Sophia, too.

 Hagia Sophia (click to see what it used to look like on the outside.

Photo by Kevin Witte

After the Hagia Sophia, Jason, Barbara and I enjoyed Mezes!

June 24, 2013 - Hippodrome (or what used to be)

Morning Lecture:

Ray Van Dam, author of the book we read, Rome and Constantinople, Professor of History, University of Michigan.
Really interesting display of maps showing how the region faced east after Alexander the Great conquered it and it became part of the Macedonian kingdoms, then west after it was conquered by the Romans. The Ottomans had it face southeast. Where is Turkey facing today?

Anthony Kaldellis, Professor of Classics, Ohio State University
Byzantium: Middle of antiquity and modernity, Catholics and Islam, Western Rome and Near East. Christian Romans known as "People of the Pen." I love these Greek-speaking Romans who kept the tradition of learning alive.

Basilica Cistern - Commissioned by Justinian in 532, this cistern provided 80,000 cubic meters of water for the Byzantine Great Palace and surrounding buildings. It got the water from aqueducts that started 20 km away. The cistern used 336 columns that were salvaged from ruins, which explains why there are random columns, such as Medusa on her side. Ironically, when the Great Palace was abandoned, so was the cistern. It was rediscovered in 1545 when Petrus Gyllius, who was researching Byzantine antiquities, was told by locals that they miraculously obtained water beneath their basements, even fish. The Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality cleaned it out and opened it as a museum in 1987. What a great way for Istanbul to profit today:)

Basilica Cistern

Pillar with Medusa's face

Sea Wall -

http://www.byzantium1200.com/index.html

Old Sea Wall/Palace windows

I'm in front of the palace

Dr. Anthony Kaldellis works his magic,
a stray dog enjoys the show.

Little Aya Sofya - This Byzantine church, which looks much like a mini version of the Aya Sofya from the outside, was built by Justinian prior to the grand master. It was named after two saints and accordingly gets the title, Sergius and Bacchus Church. The inside of the dome, however, looks like an octagon. It was converted to a mosque by the chief white eunuch, Huseyin Aga c. 1500. At first, when we got here, and Anthony was new to us, although I found his wealth of knowledge fascinating, it was hot and I was having a tough time following him. However, he began to explain his argument about why he didn't think this was a mini-Aya Sofya architecturally. Then, Matthew piped in to argue for the similarities and before we knew it, two professors were engaged in a debate before our eyes. Each time one argued his point and sounded convincing, then listened, and the counter argument was equally convincing. It felt like witnessing a band form a song. I loved hearing them debate--then we went in. I have seen the Hagia Sophia before, and I have to say, I agreed with Anthony about the differences in the domes. See for yourself:

Sergius and Bacchus Church

Inside Dome

Hippodrome - Unfortunately, the only thing that survives of the hippodrome is the spine, with a few monuments that the Romans would have seen as they watched chariot races or heard from their emperor. The outside of the Hippodrome can still be seen, and I loved the playground beneath it. Check out this video I found on Byzantine 1200:

Old walls of the Hippodrome

Obelisk of Theodosius

This is what the Hippodrome looked like according to the website Byzantine 1200.













Night time group meal on the deck of the Goldenhorn Hotel.