June 24, 2013 - Hippodrome (or what used to be)

Morning Lecture:

Ray Van Dam, author of the book we read, Rome and Constantinople, Professor of History, University of Michigan.
Really interesting display of maps showing how the region faced east after Alexander the Great conquered it and it became part of the Macedonian kingdoms, then west after it was conquered by the Romans. The Ottomans had it face southeast. Where is Turkey facing today?

Anthony Kaldellis, Professor of Classics, Ohio State University
Byzantium: Middle of antiquity and modernity, Catholics and Islam, Western Rome and Near East. Christian Romans known as "People of the Pen." I love these Greek-speaking Romans who kept the tradition of learning alive.

Basilica Cistern - Commissioned by Justinian in 532, this cistern provided 80,000 cubic meters of water for the Byzantine Great Palace and surrounding buildings. It got the water from aqueducts that started 20 km away. The cistern used 336 columns that were salvaged from ruins, which explains why there are random columns, such as Medusa on her side. Ironically, when the Great Palace was abandoned, so was the cistern. It was rediscovered in 1545 when Petrus Gyllius, who was researching Byzantine antiquities, was told by locals that they miraculously obtained water beneath their basements, even fish. The Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality cleaned it out and opened it as a museum in 1987. What a great way for Istanbul to profit today:)

Basilica Cistern

Pillar with Medusa's face

Sea Wall -

http://www.byzantium1200.com/index.html

Old Sea Wall/Palace windows

I'm in front of the palace

Dr. Anthony Kaldellis works his magic,
a stray dog enjoys the show.

Little Aya Sofya - This Byzantine church, which looks much like a mini version of the Aya Sofya from the outside, was built by Justinian prior to the grand master. It was named after two saints and accordingly gets the title, Sergius and Bacchus Church. The inside of the dome, however, looks like an octagon. It was converted to a mosque by the chief white eunuch, Huseyin Aga c. 1500. At first, when we got here, and Anthony was new to us, although I found his wealth of knowledge fascinating, it was hot and I was having a tough time following him. However, he began to explain his argument about why he didn't think this was a mini-Aya Sofya architecturally. Then, Matthew piped in to argue for the similarities and before we knew it, two professors were engaged in a debate before our eyes. Each time one argued his point and sounded convincing, then listened, and the counter argument was equally convincing. It felt like witnessing a band form a song. I loved hearing them debate--then we went in. I have seen the Hagia Sophia before, and I have to say, I agreed with Anthony about the differences in the domes. See for yourself:

Sergius and Bacchus Church

Inside Dome

Hippodrome - Unfortunately, the only thing that survives of the hippodrome is the spine, with a few monuments that the Romans would have seen as they watched chariot races or heard from their emperor. The outside of the Hippodrome can still be seen, and I loved the playground beneath it. Check out this video I found on Byzantine 1200:

Old walls of the Hippodrome

Obelisk of Theodosius

This is what the Hippodrome looked like according to the website Byzantine 1200.













Night time group meal on the deck of the Goldenhorn Hotel.